Rescue Rituals: Lifting the Thrift Store Scent from Vintage Clothes

Thrifted and vintage clothing can often carry distinct "thrift store smell" but the good news is that you can learn to gently lift that scent without ruining your find!

Wondering how to get rid of thrift store smell from vintage clothes? Whether it’s musty storage, dry cleaner chemicals, or the unmistakable “Goodwill” scent, secondhand finds often carry traces of their past. In this Rescue Rituals guide, we’ll explore why thrift store smells happen — from mothballs to industrial sprays — and share gentle, effective ways to help your vintage treasures breathe freely again.

It always begins the same way:

A dress slips into your hands on the thrift store rack, and your heart catches at the drape of the fabric, the curve of the collar, the hint of embroidery stitched by someone long ago. You imagine the life it has lived — the footsteps it’s followed, the rooms it’s brightened, the stories it carries in its seams.

And then, you bring it closer.

That unmistakable “thrift store smell” rises up — a mix of storage, dust, mothballs, dry cleaner chemicals, and time.

It’s a moment most vintage lovers know well: the thrill of discovery tempered by the quiet reality that beautiful garments often come with scents that tell of their long journey. But here’s the good news: with a little patience and care, those lingering smells can be coaxed away, leaving your piece refreshed and ready for its next chapter.

This post is part of my Rescue Rituals series — gentle guides for giving vintage garments the care they deserve.

Why Vintage Clothes Hold Onto Scents

Not every dress whispers the same way. Some seem as fresh as the day they were stitched; others bring with them the unmistakable echo of attics, cedar chests, or secondhand shops.

Scents cling to fabric for a few reasons:

• Time and Storage: Garments tucked away in basements, closets, or cardboard boxes absorb the smells of their environment.
• Fibers and Weaves: Natural fibers like wool, rayon, and cotton can hold odors more stubbornly than synthetics.
• Mothballs and Perfume: Older storage methods (like mothballs or cedar) leave behind their own distinct signatures.
• Mold and Mildew: If a garment has been stored in damp conditions (like a basement or garage), mold spores can take hold in the fibers, leaving behind a sharp, sour odor. This is more stubborn than simple mustiness and often requires multiple treatments.
  
  

Bringing home vintage and second hand clothing often means bringing home a "thrift store smell" too 

Why Thrift Stores Smell the Way They Do

Thrift stores have their own unmistakable aroma, different from any single garment. That’s because:

• The Mix of Fabrics: Dozens (or hundreds) of different fibers are stored together, each releasing its own scents into the air.
• Environmental Factors: Dust, cardboard boxes, plastics, and cleaning products mingle in confined spaces.
• The Human Element: So many hands, perfumes, and daily encounters add layers of scent. And sometimes with vintage, there is the memory of dirt, sweat and body oils trapped in the fabrics themselves.
• Industrial Cleaning Chemicals: Many thrift stores rely on bulk dry cleaning, often using perchloroethylene (known as perc). Perc has a sharp, chemical odor that many of us instantly recognize as “dry cleaner smell.” It clings to garments long after they’ve been processed.
• Air Circulation: Many thrift shops operate in older buildings with limited ventilation, which concentrates these smells.
  

There are a couple of other scents that vintage and second-hand lovers encounter, and can permeate thrift stores. The following two deserve their own call-out:

Mothballs

Mothballs were once a staple of home storage, tucked into trunks and drawers to protect wool from moth damage. But their active ingredients (naphthalene or paradichlorobenzene) leave behind a pungent, camphor-like odor that clings for years. Unlike perc, mothball odor can be incredibly stubborn — sometimes softening with air and sunlight, but never disappearing fully.

The Goodwill Smell

Many shoppers note a distinct “Goodwill smell” that doesn’t quite match mothballs or dust. It often has a sweet, slightly chemical undertone, as though an industrial-strength Febreze or fabric refresher has been sprayed to mask deeper odors. Shoes and accessories often hold onto this smell most stubbornly, since they can’t be washed the way clothing can. The result is a synthetic fragrance that clings to fibers even more tightly than mustiness or smoke.

 

In other words: the “thrift store smell” is a cocktail of age, fabric, cleaning methods, mothballs, masking sprays, and atmosphere.

Gentle Methods for Removing Thrift Store Smell

Every piece is different — what works beautifully for cotton may not suit delicate silk. These are the methods I return to most often in my studio:

1. Fresh Air & Sunlight

Sometimes the simplest solution is the best. Hanging a dress outdoors on a breezy day lets nature do the work. Sunlight gently neutralizes odors, while fresh air lifts away mustiness. If you’re nervous about fading, hang garments in indirect light.

2. Vinegar Rinse

White vinegar is a natural odor neutralizer. For washable fabrics like cotton or linen, add one cup to the rinse cycle, or soak the garment in cool water with a splash of vinegar. The scent fades as the fabric dries, leaving freshness behind.

3. Baking Soda Soak

For stubborn odors, dissolve half a cup of baking soda in cool water and let the garment soak overnight. Rinse well, then air dry. This method works especially well for cotton dresses that seem to hold onto a thrift-shop tang.

4. Cedar and Charcoal Absorbents

When washing isn’t possible (for wool coats or structured pieces), tuck the garment in a breathable garment bag with cedar blocks or activated charcoal sachets. These natural absorbers pull out odors over time without damaging fibers.

5. The Freezer Trick

Yes, the freezer! It's usually my first line of defense when I bring any secondhand textile into my studio. It is especially helpful for knits or woolens. Start by sealing the item in a freezer bag and placing it in the freezer for a few days can neutralize odors and even kill moth eggs. Follow up with a fresh-air airing.

6. Lavender and Distilled Spritz

For between-wear refreshes, I like to mix distilled water with a splash of white vinegar (or vodka!) and a few drops of lavender oil. A light mist on the inside lining works wonders and adds a touch of poetry to the ritual.

7. Professional Dry Cleaning

Some garments need professional care — especially silk, rayon blends, or structured pieces with boning. Choose a trusted dry cleaner familiar with vintage. It’s an investment, but sometimes the safest path.

Addressing Perc (Dry Cleaning) Odor

Perc, or perchloroethylene, is one of the most common solvents used in dry cleaning. It is being phased out in the USA, but it can be especially off putting in vintage garments. If you’ve ever taken a dress home from the dry cleaner and noticed a sharp, chemical smell, that’s perc.

For vintage lovers, this can be frustrating — especially when a thrift store garment comes pre-treated with a heavy perc odor. Thankfully, there are ways to manage it:

• Air It Out: Hanging the garment outside is often enough. Perc evaporates over time, but it needs airflow.
• Absorb Odors: Activated charcoal, cedar blocks, or even newspaper stuffed inside sleeves and bodices can help speed the process.
• Patience: Unlike mothball scent, perc usually fades completely — but it can take days or even weeks, depending on how saturated the fabric is.

Dealing with Mothball & Goodwill Scents

Because these are two of the most persistent and frustrating smells, they deserve special mention:

• For Mothballs: Air and sunlight are essential. Cedar or charcoal sachets in a sealed garment bag can help absorb odors over time. For washable fibers, repeated gentle washes with vinegar or baking soda may gradually reduce the scent — but sometimes only patience softens it. In some cases, the scent never disappears fully.
• For “Goodwill Smell”: Because it’s often tied to synthetic fabric sprays, it clings differently. Outdoor breezes and odor absorbers (newspaper, charcoal, baking soda) are the best tools. Shoes and accessories are the hardest; I’ve had pairs that resisted every method, lingering with that industrial-sweet note. In those cases, I sometimes reframe them as styling props rather than everyday wear.

Dealing with Mold and Mildew Smells

• Sunlight & Fresh Air: Mold hates sunlight. A few hours in direct sun can help neutralize the smell and kill surface spores.
• Vinegar Soak: For washable fabrics, a soak in vinegar and water helps kill mold spores and lift the sour smell.
• Baking Soda Boost: Adding baking soda to the soak or wash cycle helps absorb odor and loosen buildup.
• Hydrogen Peroxide (for light fabrics): A diluted peroxide soak can help in stubborn cases, but it should be tested carefully, as it may lighten colors.
• When to Walk Away: If mold has stained or weakened the fibers (visible black spots or fabric that feels brittle), the smell may not be the only concern — the garment’s integrity may already be compromised.

Every vintage garment has a history and a story.
Our goal in rescue is not to erase that, but to give it a fresh chance and a new chapter.

 

My Own Rescue Rituals

In my studio, every garment begins with a quiet assessment: fiber content, age, construction. Then comes the ritual of cleaning. Sometimes it’s as simple as a freeze and airing, or a hand wash and line-drying in the garden; other times, it’s more time intensive, attempting to lift years and laters or scent and stain without erasing story.

These small rituals matter. They remind me that care is as much about presence as it is about process.

For Buyers: What to Expect from Lee & Lillian’s

In my Poshmark days, my disclaimer was simple: all machine-washable items are freshly laundered.

Today, I go beyond that.

Every garment that can be safely cleaned is — washed, aired, or otherwise treated so that it arrives fresh and ready to wear. With delicate or riskier garments (antique silks, acetate-lined dresses, beaded gowns), I may not pre-clean before listing to avoid damage but I always freeze and air out to make sure there are no residual pests and then let the garments breathe. 

Common Questions About Thrift Store Smells

Are thrift store smells harmful?

Most thrift store odors are simply the result of age, storage, or fabric sprays. They’re not dangerous, just unpleasant. The main exceptions are mothballs (which can cause headaches or irritation) and perc, the dry cleaning chemical, which can be harsh in enclosed spaces. That’s why airing out and freshening garments is always a wise first step.

Can you wear thrift store clothes without washing them?

You can, but I don’t recommend it. Washing or airing a garment helps lift dust and odors, and it’s a small ritual of care that makes the piece feel truly yours. Even if you’re not able to fully launder something right away, a quick airing or spritz goes a long way.

Do all vintage clothes smell?

Not always. Some arrive with no scent at all, others with only the faintest trace of storage. The “thrift store smell” is far more common in big-box resale shops (like Goodwill) where hundreds of garments are housed together. Boutique vintage pieces often carry little to no odor at all.

How do you get mold smell out of vintage clothes?

Sunlight, vinegar soaks, and baking soda washes are your best tools. Be cautious with delicate fibers, and know that sometimes mold signals deeper damage that can’t be fully reversed.

How do you get rid of thrift store smell without washing?

Fresh air, cedar sachets, activated charcoal, or even the freezer can refresh a piece without water. These methods are especially useful for shoes, wool coats, or delicate garments you can’t wash at home.

How long does it take for thrift store smell to fade?

It depends. A light mustiness may lift in a single afternoon outdoors, while perc can take days or weeks. Mothball odor is the most stubborn — sometimes softening with time, but occasionally never disappearing fully.

Why do shoes or handbags from thrift stores smell so strong?

Shoes, purses, and accessories often absorb both storage odors and the “Goodwill spray” effect — that slightly sweet, chemical scent used to mask mustiness. Because they can’t be washed like clothing, these items take the longest to refresh. Airing, newspaper stuffing, and charcoal sachets help, but sometimes a trace lingers.

Some types of second hand or vintage garment, shoes, bags, hats, etc.
may take more care and time to help lift their thrift store scent. 

Quick Reference Guide

When you’re standing in your own laundry room with a thrifted treasure, here’s a simple guide to keep in mind:

• Fresh air + sunlight = first line of defense
• Vinegar rinse for cotton and linen
• Baking soda soak for stubborn odors
• Cedar or charcoal bags for delicate fibers
• Freezer for wool and knits
• Lavender spritz for refreshing between wears
• Dry cleaning for silks and structured garments
• Air + patience for dry cleaning perc odor
• Patience + absorbents for mothball scent
• Outdoor breezes + reframing for “Goodwill smell”
  
  

Closing Reflection

Returning to that first imagined dress — the one you pulled from the thrift store rack, unsure if the scent would scare you away. With a little care, it’s now hanging fresh and light, its story intact, its future unwritten.

This is the quiet joy of vintage rescue: not just finding what was lost, but giving it room to bloom again.

Every rescued piece deserves to breathe freely. May your thrifted treasures find new life in your care, ready for their next chapter.

✨ If you enjoyed this guide, this is only one chapter of an ongoing series I call Rescue Rituals — where I share gentle, practical ways to care for vintage.

My ebook, "Rescue Rituals" where I help teach you my favorite
methods to rescue and care for vintage clothing

If you’d like to go deeper, I’ve gathered my favorite stain removal methods, fabric care rituals, and step-by-step rescue stories into a 50+ page eBook: Rescue Rituals: A Gentle Guide to Mending and Restoring Vintage Garments. It’s perfect for vintage sellers, thrifting enthusiasts, or anyone who wants to bring old garments back to life with patience and care. Think of it as a printable reference book — part toolkit, part philosophy — that you can keep beside you on laundry day or whenever a new treasure needs a little love.