Understanding Vintage Sizing and Condition: A Thrifting Buyer’s Guide

Shopping vintage online is a little like stepping into an attic you’ve never explored before. Treasures are tucked away, but so are mysteries: the dress marked a size 10 that fits more like a modern 4, the phrase “very good vintage condition” that leaves you wondering what that really means.

If you’ve ever hesitated over these questions, you’re not alone. Vintage doesn’t always speak the same language as modern fashion — but with a few tools, you can shop with confidence and enjoy the stories these garments carry.

Why Vintage Sizing is So Different

Two vintage dress labels; the left is from a 1960's dress and reads "size 15", while the right is from a 1990's and reads "6". Both have similar measurements and would fit a modern Medium.

One of the first surprises for new buyers is that a vintage size tag rarely lines up with what we see in stores today. A “size 12” from the 1950s, for example, might compare more closely to a modern size 6. Why?

• Vanity sizing crept into fashion in the late 20th century, gradually shifting the numbers downward. What once was a size 14 might have been relabeled as a 10, then an 8.
• No universal standards existed. Boutique designers, home seamstresses, and small labels often cut their garments according to their own charts.
• Different underpinnings mattered. Dresses from earlier eras were designed with slips, crinolines, or even structured undergarments in mind, which changes how the garments fit today.
  
  

A Note on Vanity Sizing

Vanity sizing is the retail practice of labeling garments with smaller numbers to make shoppers feel they wear a smaller size. Beginning in the mid-20th century, brands adjusted their charts downward for marketing reasons — not because bodies suddenly changed. Depending on the brand, a size 12 in 1960 could be labeled a size 8 or even a 6 today.

For vintage shoppers, that means the tag number is rarely trustworthy on its own. Measurements are the only reliable guide.

Why So Much Vintage Clothing Runs Small

When vintage shopping you may find that smaller sizes are more plentiful.

When shopping vintage, you might notice that many of the pieces available today are on the smaller side. This doesn’t mean that people “weren’t larger” in the past — fuller-bodied people have always existed. What it reflects instead are patterns of production and survival.

• Production bias: Many brands simply made fewer garments in larger sizes, and those sold quickly to the people who needed them.
• Survival bias: Larger garments were often worn, loved, altered, or handed down until they wore out. Smaller garments, on the other hand, were sometimes set aside if they didn’t fit or were bought aspirationally — which made them more likely to survive decades later.
• Market impact: That’s why the vintage racks we see today often lean small. Larger sizes are out there — but they’re rarer, and they often sell quickly when they appear.

This doesn’t mean larger bodies weren’t represented in history. It means the clothing that reached us has a built-in bias, shaped by both the fashion industry and the way people used their clothes. The best way to shop vintage is always by measurements rather than size tags, remembering that the gaps in availability say more about history and preservation than about bodies themselves.

How to Measure for a Perfect Fit

The best way to know if a vintage piece will work for you is to measure a dress you already love. Here’s a simple method:

1. Choose a favorite dress — one that feels comfortable and fits the way you like.
2. Lay it flat on a smooth surface.
   

   

3. Take these key measurements:
   
• Bust: measure from underarm seam to underarm seam, then double the number.
  
  
  
  
  
  
• Waist: measure the narrowest part, then double.
  
  
  
  
  
• Hips: measure the widest point, then double.
• Shoulders: seam to seam (across the back is usually easier)
  
  
  
• Length: from shoulder seam to hem.
  
  
  
  

Most sellers (myself included) provide flat measurements — meaning they list the garment’s dimensions, not body measurements. When comparing, always leave room for ease: at least ½–1 inch for comfort, more if you like a relaxed fit.

✨ Tip: if a garment is close to your favorite dress’s measurements, chances are it will feel just as good when you slip it on.

A Note on Fit in My Shop

Every vintage piece I list includes a suggested modern size range based on its measurements — for example, “best suited for modern S–M.” This helps translate vintage numbers into today’s language. And if you ever need more clarity, I’m only a message away. I’m always glad to double-check measurements or offer guidance before you commit.

What Vintage Condition Really Means

Vintage condition should detail how much wear a garment has sustained, such as missing buttons, popped seams, missing rhinestones or staining, as well as where repairs have been made. 

Another part of vintage shopping that can feel mysterious is condition grading. Terms like “excellent” or “good” aren’t standardized, which means different sellers may use them slightly differently. Here’s how they generally break down — and how I use them in my own shop:

• Excellent: Near-perfect, with very minimal signs of wear.
• Very Good: Minor, age-appropriate flaws (a touch of fading, a faint mark) but nothing that detracts from the overall beauty.
• Good: Visible wear, but the garment is still very wearable. Flaws may be noticeable on inspection, such as a scattering of pulls or a well-mended seam.
• Fair: Structurally sound but with clear cosmetic flaws. Best for someone who doesn’t mind visible signs of age.
• As-Is: Pieces that may need repair, have more significant flaws, or are best suited for costume, styling, or collection.

What You Can Expect From Sellers

A trustworthy seller will do more than just assign a label — they’ll show and tell you exactly what to expect. Photos of small flaws, a note about a gentle mend, or mention of age-appropriate patina all help you make an informed choice.

Remember:

• Gentle signs of age are part of the garment’s story.
• Transparency builds trust — you deserve to know what you’re buying.
• When in doubt, ask. Most sellers are happy to provide extra measurements or photos.

Shopping Vintage With Confidence

Vintage garments carry decades of life in their seams. Some come to us with their tags faded, others with a story stitched into their hems. When you know how to measure your favorite dress — and when you understand what those condition notes really mean — the mystery of vintage begins to dissolve.

Instead of worrying whether “Size 10” will fit, you’ll trust the numbers. Instead of puzzling over “very good condition,” you’ll know what to expect.

✨ And that means you can focus on what really matters: finding the piece that makes you feel at home in your own story.